Five Things to Know About… Nanluoguxiang

Nanluoguxiang (南锣鼓巷 nán luógǔ xiàng) is one of Beijing’s most famous streets and top tourist attractions. But how much do you really know about it? Check out our top 5 things to know below!

The main street is a tourist trap even in winter

It’s over 700 years old

Built in the Yuan Dynasty (1271 – 1368) it is one of the oldest neighbourhoods remaining in Beijing.

It used to be called ‘Humpback Lane’…

Because the land rises slightly in the middle and is lower in the north and south, like a hunchback, it used to be called 罗锅巷 (Luóguo xiàng; Luoguo 罗锅 means hunchback). 

… And also ‘Centipede Street’

Nanluoguxiang runs north-south, with 8 alleys each to the east and west neatly arranged in a “fish bone shape”, from which we can get a glimpse of the layout of the Yuan Dynasty city. The entire block also resembles a big centipede, so it was called ‘Centipede Street’. There used to be two ancient wells in the northernmost part of the road, which looked like the eyes of the centipede!

One of the quieter side streets running off of Nanluoguxiang

The name was changed in the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912), but it’s not clear why

It may have been because craftspeople on the street made 锣鼓 luógǔ, the gongs and drums often played together in Chinese folk music. The first character means ‘south’, as there is also a (much quieter, more interesting) northern part if you cross Gulou East Street.

Many important people used to live there

Chiang Kai-Shek, Qi Baishi and Mao Dun, along with various military officials and politicians, are some of the famous former residents of Nanluoguxiang and the surrounding hutongs. Some of these courtyard houses are now restaurants or other public buildings such as a police station. 

A restaurant on Banchang Hutong (one of the ‘legs’ of the centipede), in the former residence of a Qing general.

As the ancient poem says, swallows that nested in front of the halls of the Wangs and Xies in the past have now flown into the houses of ordinary people (旧时王谢堂前燕,飞入寻常百姓家) – what was once exclusive has now become open to all!

What do you think of Nanluoguxiang? Let us know in the comments below. We always love hearing your thoughts and insights! 

Photo Credits
– Cultural Keys


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